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Official
Berlin Web Sites
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Berlin
The city of Berlin is actually a grouping of
several northern German communities that grew together
over time. The name "Berlin" is a
corruption of the German word Bärlein,
meaning "little bear," and the city's
symbol is (appropriately enough) a small black bear
standing erect and wearing a crown.
The
Berlin I Remember
As I begin, I beg the reader's
pardon for any temporal disorientation. The
Berlin described here is not the Berlin of today, but
of the late 1960s. It is my hope that my guests
will join me there for a moment, both in that place
and in that time. Recovery from World War II is
still in progress, the city is divided by the
infamous Wall. The Vietnam conflict and related
protests are the daily headline topics, the Cold War
drags on, and the bilateral superpower military
strategy of deterrence is MADMutually Assured
Destruction.
In the 21st century, as in the past, Berlin is the
proud capital city of the nation of Germany.
During the three years I live and work here, however,
Germany is a defeated and partitioned country.
Following World War II, Germany had been divided into
four zones, each occupied by one of the four
conquering powers: France, Great Britain, the United
States, and the Soviet Union. West
Germanyorganized as the Federal Republic of
Germany (Deutsche Bundesrepublik)with its
capital in Bonn, comprises the French, British, and
American zones. East Germanythe so-called
German Democratic Republic (Deutsche Democratische
Republik) with its official capital in Frankfurt an der Oder.[1]makes
up the Soviet zone.
Situated well within East Germany, 177 kilometers
(110 miles) from the border with the West, is the
city of Berlin, former capital of Germany. Like
Germany itself, Berlin is also partitioned into four
occupied sectors, and although occupation of West
Germany was lifted in the early 1950s, Berlin
continues to be occupied by the four powers during
the remainder of the Cold War. The eastern
sector is occupied by the U.S.S.R.; the western three
sectors, from north to south, are occupied
respectively by France, the U.K., and the U.S.
Despite that an agreement among the occupying powers
states that Berlin is not to be considered the
capital city during the occupation, East Berlin is to
all effects the working headquarters of the East
German regime.
For fifteen years, the borders between Berlin's
various sectors had been marked but not blocked; one
could travel more-or-less freely throughout the
citymerely taking prudent note of which
occupying power controlled the area where one
happened to be at the moment. But in August
1961 the barriers, between Berlin's three western
sectors on one side, and the Soviet sector and East
Germany on the other, suddenly became physical as
well as political, as the East German regime
desperately sought to staunch the ongoing hemorrhage
of its labor force and brainpower to the West.
Walls, fences, and waterway patrols encircled West
Berlin, dividing it from East Berlin and cutting it
off from the East German countryside.
Neighborhoods were sliced in two; streetcar lines
were truncated; bustling boulevards suddenly became
dead-end streets. People became abruptly and
permanently separated from their friends, families,
jobs, and homes.
I first came to West Berlin in December
1965. Even two decades after the end of World
War II it is a horrendous mix of demolition and
rebuilding, so great had been the devastation of the
conflict. It is a city in a cage, a lone bubble
of democracy floating defiantly in the Soviet brew of Eastern
Europe. Yet West Berlin is a thriving city, a
glittering showcase of the West in the grim heart of
the East, its beautiful parks and modern high-rise
buildings sprouting from the rubble amid pre-war
architecture that has escaped serious damage.
It is a major cultural center of central Europe,
featuring museums, theaters, concert halls, and
universities, not to mention the artists, performers,
faculty, and patrons who make it all work. It
is a city of palaces and prisons, monuments and
office towers, busy boulevards and quaint streets,
serene gardens and majestic forests, shopping
districts and even a few small outlying
farmsall against the inescapable background of
war's ghastly aftermath. Indeed, the city's most
noteworthy hill is Teufelsberg (Devil's
Mountain), entirely man-made out of the excavated
rubble of war-damaged buildings; yet even this grim
mound plays merry host to a ski resort! West
Berlin is both urban and rural, a world within
itself, literally confined within an area of about
900 square kilometers (340 square miles). This
is the Berlin I knew.
Capitalist West Berlin's isolation within the
heart of the communist GDR has made it unique.
As a result of a Soviet blockade of all road, rail,
and barge traffic to and from the city in the late
1940s, for a time West Berlin became the only major
city ever to have all of its necessitiesfood,
medicine, fuel, and materialssupplied by air,
in the form of the Berlin Airlift. During the
Cold War, Berlin is a hotbed of international
espionage, prisoner exchanges, and refugee
traffic. And from 1961 until the demise of the
GDR, West and East Berlin are physically divided by
fences, walls, and barrier strips. According to
official Communist Party propaganda, the Wall has
been erected to prevent invasion of the GDR by the
occupying military forces in West Berlin. No
one actually believes this fantastic rationale,
however. It is obvious that the barrier's true
purpose is to halt the flow of East German
talent and manpower to the West.
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Geography
and Landmarks
Metropolitan Berlin is a collage of
local communities, grouped into about 16 major
districts. These are shown in the guide below
in their approximate geographical relationship (north
at top), along with points of interest. Note
that these last are represented mostly by those which
I could visit personally or view from an observation
platform; having a military security clearance
prevented my entering the Soviet sector. Items
featured in the photo tour are
displayed in green type.
AMERICAN |
BRITISH |
FRENCH |
SOVIET |
Sector
Landmark Guide |
Spandau
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Reinickendorf
- Jungfernheide
- Tegel Airport (F)
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Wedding
- Plötzensee Memorial
- Rehberge
- Bernauer
Str.
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Pankow
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Charlottenburg
- Charlottenburg
Palace & Garden
- Deutsche
Oper (German Opera)
- Gatow Airport (UK)
- Mass Exhibition Grounds:
Deutschland Halle
Funkturm
- Ernst
Reuter Pl.
- Olympic Stadium
- Theodor
Heuss Pl.
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Tiergarten
- Bellevue
Palace
- Europa
Center
- Hansa Quarter
- Hauptbahnhof (Main Rail
Station)
- Kaiser-Wilhelm
Mem. Church
- Kaufhaus des Westens
(KaDeWe)
- Kongreßhalle
- Kurfürstendamm
- Philharmonie
- Reichstag
Building
- Russian
War Mem.
- Siegessäule
(Victory Column)
- Zoological
Garden
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Mitte
- Alexander Pl.
- Berlin Dome
- Berlin Palace
- Brandenburg
Gate
- Main Library
- Museum Island
- Oranienburger Str.
- Sporthalle
- Staatsoper (State Opera)
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Prenzlauer
Berg
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Wilmersdorf
- Teufelsberg
- Grunewald
- Havel Strand
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Schöneberg
- John F. Kennedy Pl.
- Rathaus
Schöneberg
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Kreuzberg
- Checkpoint
Charlie
- Hasenheide
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Friedrichs-Hain
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Zehlendorf
- Freedom
Bridge
- Peacock
Island
- Wannsee
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Steglitz
- Botanical
Garden
- Dahlem Museum
- Free University
- Kaufhaus Karstadt
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Tempelhof
- Tempelhof
Central Airport (US):
Air-Bridge Mem.
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Neukölln
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OCCUPATION SECTOR
COLOR CODES |
AMERICAN |
BRITISH |
FRENCH |
SOVIET |
As Berlin was
divided up after W.W.II, the U.S.S.R. got the
Stadtmitte (city center) and the northeast
quadrant; the U.S. ended up with the largest
territory in the south, including Tempelhof
Central Airport; the U.K. acquired the sector
with the most points of tourist interest; and
France received a compensatory parcel in the
north, including Tegel, the only airport in West
Berlin with approach clearances adequate for
commercial jetliners. An interesting oddity
is that the Russian War Memorial ended up in the
British sector, so Russian guards must be bussed
in for each shift. |
Despite the unusual political
divisions and the physical barrier of the Wall,
getting around West Berlin is quite easy. Taxis
are ubiquitous; the many local and express bus routes
are operated on a precise timetable; the subway
(U-Bahn) has stops in nearly all areas of West Berlin
east of the Havel River. The elevated Stadtbahn
(S-Bahn) is operated by the East Berlin regime, but
also serves West Berlin. In addition, cruise
boats operate on many of the city's rivers and
canals. All of these are displayed on detailed
city maps, making it easy to find one's way from here
to there using either private or public
transportation.
Ways of getting into and out of the
occupied city are much more restricted. Surface
traffic between West Berlin and West Germany is
handled by two Autobahn (motor highway)
routeswest to Helmstedt and south to
Hofand by the Deutsche Reichsbahn (the railway
of the GDR), as well as by the military "duty
trains" of the occupying forces. Tegel and
Tempelhof airports feature commercial flights to the
rest of Europe and the world.
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Photo
Tour
During my stay in Berlin, I used some of my
leisure to capture the city's
landmarksparticularly in the British and
American Sectorson 35-mm. film.
Now that I have finally gotten around to scanning
those old slides, I find them in less than pristine
condition. Some of the
colors have changed or faded, and in some cases
contaminants have proved hard to remove without
risking damage to the film.
Even so, this selection of shots, grouped by the
sector boundaries of the period, may still be found
enjoyable.
For 2009, the original 35-mm.
slides have been cleaned, re-scanned with finer resolution, and
tweaked with a digital editor for better alignment and color
balance.
Use the color-coded Sector
Landmark Guide above as a general indicator of
landmark locations, and select any of the following
sectors to tour:
The photo page sequence is such that a general
tour of the entire city flows best if the sectors in
the above plan are selected in a clockwise
direction. This way, the landmarks progress
naturally from one sector to the next as the pages
are scrolled from top to bottom. While you are free to start
and finish your tour at any point, I recommend
viewing British, French, Soviet, and American
sectors, in that order. This way, the tour begins and
ends on an upbeat note, with Berlin's grimmest
aspects sandwiched between.
Of special interest to the tourist is Berlin's
east-west axis boulevard, which bisects the city and
features prominent landmarks along its course.
This highway changes names as it traverses several
districts. In west-to-east sequence, it hails
as Heer Strasse, Kaiser Damm, Bismarck Strasse,
Strasse des 17. Juni, Unter den Linden, Rathaus
Strasse, Karl Marx Allee, and Frankfurter Allee.
If using a dial-up connection,
please allow time for the images to load; the British Sector in
particular features numerous photos.
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Personal
Impressions
My military assignment to Berlin was my first trip
away from American soil. I was 21 then, and
there is nothing quite like a trip to another
continent and another culture to illuminate and
challenge homeland perspectives that are taken for
granted. Following are some of my impressions
upon arriving, as well as after having grown into the
fabric of the city:
Horror of
inhumanity: No matter how many
times one has seen the Berlin wall in print or on
screen, the psyche rejects it as
unbelievable. Like the Nazi extermination
camps and the A-bomb detonations over Japan, it
overloads the sensitivities and seems akin to
sensationalist effects in fantasy movies.
Seeing it in person affects one viscerally,
bringing home that this is real, an inescapable
fact in a world we only fancy is civilized. |
Scale:
While there is much about Berlin that is grand
and imposing, on the human scale things seem
somehow miniature compared to
Americaperhaps compact, precise, and
efficient are the terms I seek. Even the
police drive Volkswagen beetles. |
Pace of life:
Time is noticeably compartmentalized; domestic
life is lived day-to-day, rather than from
week-to-week as in the U.S. People do not
hoard food, but buy it fresh every day; it
doesn't have time to spoil or go stale. |
Regimentation:
Berliners refuse to turn on the heat in hotels or
apartments until Octobereven if it turns
chilly in September. Perhaps this attitude
is rooted in the fact that many buildings are
still heated by coal; a little discomfort just
isn't worth stoking up that apparatus for only
one or two cool days. |
Tradition: In
contrast to the asphalt streets and concrete sidewalks typical
in American cities, many of Berlin's are cobblestone. The
perpetuation of this type of paving owes largely to the labor
guilds, which guarantee work for craftspeople
trained in various trades—even when those technologies are
obsolete and inefficient by current standards. |
Construction:
Few buildings in northern Germany are made of
wood. Except for steel high-rises, masonry is the
preferred construction medium. Even roofs
are made of red clay tiles. Because walls
are solid, most wiring and plumbing are mounted
on the surfaces of interior walls and ceilings,
or under false floors. |
Time reference:
Many of the buildings that survived the World
Wars date from the19th century and before.
Large urban structures of such vintage are
designed to accommodate horse traffic, with
tunnel-like portals through the outer walls
providing access to central courtyards. |
Permanence:
In Berlin, an "old" house is at least a
century or two old, whereas in the U.S. buildings
are routinely demolished long before reaching the
hundred-year mark. Berliners see value,
quality, and durability in what exists, and wish
to protect it and build upon it; meanwhile, each
generation of Americans seems bent upon
eradicating the work of its forebears
to make room for the latest slap-together schemes
to make a quick buck. |
Law and Order:
Despite its cloak-and-dagger reputation as a
nexus of intrigue and espionage, Berlin is a city
whose streets and parks are safe for the ordinary
person to wander any time of the day or
night. (At least it was before racist
backlash against immigrant laborers in the 1970s.) |
Home entertainment:
At a time when color television is the rage in
the U.S., Berliners' interest is in audio and
radio. In addition to ordinary AM and FM,
home receivers typically have several long- and
short-wave tuning bands, providing access to news
and culture from hundreds or even thousands of
miles away. Movies? That's what the
Kino (movie theater) is for! |
Culture:
Fine art, theater, music, literature and
botanical and zoological gardens are an integral
part of the average Berliner's life. Though
not all are greatly knowledgeable about creative
culture, most nevertheless value and enjoy
it. Like their counterparts in
Vienna, Paris, Florence, and elsewhere, Berliners appreciate the arts as a crucial component of
their city's identity and
vitality,[2] and thus consider
taxpayer support for them a most worthwhile
investment. |
People:
The people of Berlin range from urbane to
provincial. Some are highly educated,
cultured, and worldly professionals, while others
have lived and worked their entire lives within a
neighborhood only a few city blocks square. |
Relations:
Berliners have mixed feelings about
Americans. They welcome the Western allies
as liberators from the Nazi regime, as defenders
against Soviet aggression, and as benefactors and partners in the
massive rebuilding effort. Yet there is a
natural resentment that their city is no longer really
theirs, but that of the occupiers. A
further irritant in this era is the Vietnam
conflict, which few outside the U.S. now view as
anything more than an imperialist effort to
establish an occupying foothold on the Asian
continent. But for whatever their
differences in language, tradition, and politics,
Berliners and Americans are not too much
different on the human level. We work day
to day, deal with life's problems, root for the
home team, and party on the weekend. |
Precisely how much of the Berlin I once knew
remains today I cannot say. Though I revisited
Europe in 1989, my path did not lead to Berlin.
But to judge from long-established pattern, Berlin's
acquisition of the new has not meant the discarding
of the old. If I were to return today, it would
be like greeting an old friend after an absence of
more than half a lifetime. Certainly there have been some
noticeable and not entirely unwelcome
changesafter all, the city is no longer
dominated by foreign forces, and that miserable scar
of a wall has finally been removed. But I am
sure that the underlying spirit of Berlin endures,
simultaneously brooding and rejoicing, regardless of
temporal turmoilor perhaps, oddly enough,
because of it. Berlin bleibt immer
Berlin!
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Afterthoughts
Since I left Berlin in February 1969, many things
have occurred. The floating of the U.S. dollar
caused its value to drop relative to the Deutsche
Mark, making daily life in Berlin much more expensive
for Americans. An influx of laborers from the
Middle East triggered conservative reaction
disturbingly reminiscent of the hysteria of the Nazi
era. The sweeping, saddle-shaped roof of the
Kongresshalle has collapsed, and the burned-out
Reichstag building has been restored. Following
the demise of the German Democratic Republic, the
various sectors of Berlin have been rejoined (albeit
not without some stressful adjustment), and the city
now stands once again as capital of a united
Germany. Plans are afoot to convert the
military installation (where I once worked) at the
summit of Teufelsberg into a tourist
attraction. And I am given to understand that
the celebrated Kurfürstendamm has been superseded by
Oranienburger Strasse as the primary tourist magnet.
In addition to the reunification of Berlin and
Germany, the integration of Germany itself into a
broader European Union has brought about other
changes, including the relaxed border policies and
the replacement of national currencies (including the
Deutsche Mark) by the Euro.
Still, for Berlin to be Berlin, there
must remain the Tiergarten and the Olympic Stadium,
the Philharmonie and the German Opera, the Dahlem
Museum and Charlottenburg Palace, fresh Berliner
Pfannkuchen and weekend cruises to Peacock Island,
and fruitily foamy Berliner Weisse sipped in a
sidewalk cafe on a warm afternoon. Someday I
hope to return, to marvel at what has changed, and
to savor what has not.
=SAJ=
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Notes:
[1] Frankfurt an der Oder, a small
East German city, should not be confused with
Frankfurt am Main, the large West German metropolis,
especially familiar to Americans stationed at
Rhein-Main Air Base.
[2] Though the fine arts often fail
to raise enough money to cover their own expenses,
established art institutions tend to attract talented
and educated individuals (hence innovators, leaders, and cash) to a locale,
and thereby pay for themselves indirectlya
subtlety seemingly lost on most bottom-line-focused
Americans.
Films Featuring Occupied Berlin:
- The Spy Who Came In from the Cold
- The Quiller Memorandum
- The Ipcress File
- Funeral in Berlin
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Other
Personal Berlin Pages
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